Never Throw Away Scallop Eggs: Turn Them Into a Gourmet Butter – Recipe
Beyond its stunning beaches and rugged shoreline, Jersey boasts a extraordinary food tradition, deeply rooted in both land and ocean. Starting with world-famous local new potatoes to shellfish sweeter and softer than any tasted anywhere else, Jersey's harvest is second to none. What inspires many above all, though, is the way island producers and producers are embracing regenerative agriculture, and thereby reinventing their culinary destiny with innovation and dedication.
Recently, I had the privilege to lead a talk at a event, and cook a welcoming dinner for all speakers, together with an inspiring organizer. Naturally, the shellfish had to be on the menu, since they represent Jersey at their best: delicate, plump and bursting of the sea.
These mollusks appear as the perfect symbol of the island's culinary evolution: sweet, plump and regenerative by nature, purifying and cleaning the sea while helping to build shoreline habitats. Both cultivated and, importantly, hand-harvested, they're one of the eco-friendliest seafood options to eat. Yet even, who were raised on Jersey, do not eat the roes – an often-seen habit, unfortunately. Even more justification to celebrate those coral-pink morsels, that are much too delicious to throw out. Whipped into butter, they turn into sheer indulgence: melt over scallops, stir into rice dishes or simply slather on toasted slices.
Scallops can be a little expensive, though, so I've created the following method to transform just one shellfish into an impressive starter (or a few into a satisfying main course) and, by blending the eggs into smoked spice spread and roasting them in the half-shells with small tomatoes and garlic, potential waste turns into a luxury.
That same spirit of reinvention is central to the movement, that has launched an award offering support to food pioneers with backing, guidance and access to a retail platform. Evaluated by a panel of respected food heroes, the award will be presented during an upcoming event. It's focused on backing concepts that can assist our food systems flourish, across the board, and I can't think of a more exciting place for this dialogue to begin than Jersey.
Shellfish Roasted in Roe Butter with Small Tomatoes and Crushed Garlic
Yields 6 as a appetizer or 2 as a main
Six with eggs shellfish in the shell
18 cherry tomatoes, halved
6 cloves of garlic, crushed
Three whole red chillies (such as jalapeño), halved lengthways, or 1 pinch red pepper flakes, or to preference (if desired)
50g unsalted butter
1 tsp paprika
Salt and black pepper, to liking
Lemon slices, to serve
Some sea asparagus, agretti or 6 small gherkin slices, to decorate (optional)
Clean the shellfish, removing the roe from each and keeping the rest of the shellfish attached to the shell (ask your seafood supplier to do this for you, if necessary). Put 6 halved tomatoes in each shell with a clove's worth of smashed garlic and half a red chilli, if using.
Put the scallop roes in the jug of an immersion blender (many prefer it's the best method for mixing tiny quantities), add the spread and paprika, and blend until creamy. Distribute the mixture between the shells, ensuring every scallop is well coated in the spread.
Heat the broiler until it's very hot, then put the scallops under the flame for six to eight minutes, until charred and bubbling. Serve right away, topped with if desired samphire, herbs, a piece of gherkin and/or a splash of the pickle juice or some lemon juice.